Tuesday, 7 October 2014

Affordable Art

A couple of weeks back the Affordable Art Fair made its annual visit to Bristol and I was invited to take a look around courtesy of Smithson Art Gallery. Bristol's a creative city and galleries and print shops abound, but what's great about the Art Fair is being able to see a variety of stuff in one huge place. This time around some 55 galleries were in attendance, taking over the vast space that is the Engine Room at Temple Meads station. The fair rolls into town each year, as well as taking up residence in two locations in London, Hampstead and Battersea. If you missed the Bristol event and don't want to wait until next year to see what the fair's all about, the next event takes place at Battersea Evolution on 23rd-26th October. 

So, what exactly is meant by 'affordable'? Unfortunately most of the pieces that caught my eye were very much out of my budget (a particular favourite came in at £1700) but in proper art terms this does constitute a reasonable price point and if you're a serious art collector you'd find plenty to tempt you. For amateur art fans like myself, it's perhaps less about investing in a piece and more about dipping a toe into the contemporary art scene, seeing which artists catch your eye and perhaps leaving with a print to brighten up a bare wall.


What I enjoyed about it was being able to browse at ease - it's a different experience to stepping into an empty gallery and feeling a bit self conscious about looking around with no real intention to buy. There was also a huge range of styles on offer, from edgy photography to quirky screen prints, unusual sculptures to nostalgic watercolours. After a bit of deliberation I came away empty handed but there were plenty of pieces I hesitated over, none of them coming in over my pre-set budget of £100. But with no obvious space to fill on my walls and other more pressing financial obligations needing attention, I decided to hold off making a purchase. 



If you can't get to London and don't want to wait a whole year for the next Art Fair, this month signals the beginning of the autumn arts trail season in Bristol, with the West Bristol artistic community hosting their trail on the 11th and 12th October. Taking in private homes and studios around Clifton, Redland and Hotwells, it's a good way to view local talent across everything from jewellery making to ceramics. Find out full details here.

Then in November, North Bristol takes up the baton, with one of the biggest trails in the city covering areas such as Bishopston, Horfield and St Andrews. I've been visiting the trail for the last couple of years and love the idea of popping into different homes and studios, meeting with the artists and browsing original pieces of art that usually have a very affordable price tag. Find out more about North Bristol Arts trail here. 


Finally, you can also browse affordable art without even leaving the house thanks to www.original-art-under100.com/. I came across this site thanks to brilliant blog The Frugality. There's a lot on this site so you may need to do some sifting to unearth something that rocks your boat, but there are handy filters to help make the job easier, and the prices are very wallet-friendly if you want to buy something a bit more unique than a ubiquitous Ikea print but don't know where to start.

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Thursday, 18 September 2014

Busy Doing Nothing

We're a couple of weeks into a new school term and the laisse-faire, unstructured days of summer seem a dim and distant memory. At the school gates there's an almost palpable frisson of anxiety hanging around parents who are remembering just how stressful it is juggling work with school pick up and the multitude of extra-curricular and social activities that somehow sneak their way into our already hectic schedules. As the new term rolls in, we always seem to have to 'be somewhere' at an given point in the day - there's rarely a moment when no demands are placed on us and we can just 'be' instead. How did we get to this point? Why do we feel the need to timetable every second of our children's lives? Who says we have to be quite so busy all the time?


Doing nothing is fun
I've long worried that the modern parenting style of packing our kids' days with extra-curricular activities has a detrimental effect, not least on the average household's finances. There are numerous articles on the web quoting eye-watering figures that parents are apparently willing to shell out to ensure their children have access to a range of hobbies and 'experiences'. I say 'willing' but there is of course a sense amongst many parents that you just to suck it up - everyone else is paying out so their child can play the harp/try street dance/enrol at circus skills, etc, etc - so your child simply won't have a chance of becoming a fully rounded, employable adult if you don't, too.

Somehow this myth has taken root, and of course there are plenty of companies out there happy to take advantage of our middle-class anxieties and push ever-more spurious pursuits in our direction - surely we can find the time to fit in that class on Mandarin for Preschoolers somehow? Our child will be destined for failure if we don't! It's amazing how many rational-thinking parents give into peer pressure when it comes to the perceived 'needs' of their children. But this modus-operandi seems to almost always result in highly stressed parents with rapidly dwindling bank accounts and exhausted children, who - with 6am starts for swimming club before school, followed by tennis class in the evening - are often gaining not much more than a yearning for a 'day off' and a pallid complexion. I nearly came to blows with a mother who was horrified by my opinion that many children just do too much these days. Her response implied that by not taking advantage of every opportunity out there I was doing my children a disservice, and that I was lazy for being reluctant to spend every evening and weekend ferrying my children from one activity to another.

Had said mother's philosophy been driven by a disadvantaged background and a desire to give her own children opportunities that she may not have had, I would have understood her position. But 'helicopter parenting' is a thoroughly middle class obsession, and one which has the unfortunate consequence of further widening the gap between the classes. As middle class parents coach their children to within an inch of their lives and fill their days with expensive educational experiences it becomes patently clear that these kids have got something of an unfair advantage over the child from the poorer background. 

Now, of course hobbies are a good thing. For a child to find an activity they truly love, which perhaps gives them something more than school can offer, and which nurtures their confidence and enjoyment of the wider world, is obviously something parents should encourage. But in between enjoying those hobbies ('enjoying' being the operative word, here) shouldn't we allow our children the time to do absolutely nothing? And is it really indulgent to expect a couple of hours to oneself at the weekend, to sit around drinking coffee and reading the Sunday papers? 

Sadly, as exhausted parents who seem to spend every waking hour dashing from one activity to another, it's all to easy to turn to electronic devices to entertain our children during the few hours that they are actually at home, so desperate are we for a bit of child-free time in between all this hectic activity. What this means, of course, is that our children are becoming increasingly incapable of managing their own free time. Without someone to 'direct' their down time they simply don't know what to do with themselves (unless they have an iPad or mobile to hand...) With school life becoming ever more rigid and restrictive, and the burden of academic expectation on even the youngest school-goers growing each year, it seems that children's concept of 'fun' is becoming muddled - it appears that they don't understand that they can actually make their OWN fun sometimes. 

It's my belief that we should be giving our kids opportunities to rediscover spontaneous, simple activities of their own devising. But to do this, we need to slow down, give them time to just 'be'. Instead of filling their time and supervising their every waking hour, we should step back a bit and give them space to enjoy simple, uncomplicated pleasures. Let them find the things that really, truly interest them rather than foisting activities upon them that we think they should be doing. Not only does this make for a calmer home life, but the health of your bank account will improve, too. 

Forget 'Tiger Parenting', but consider 'Idle Parenting' instead, a philosophy espoused by Tom Hodgkinson in his brilliant book 'The Idle Parent' which I would urge all parents to read. A truly alternative parenting guide, it suggests that a more hands-off style results in happy kids, happy parents, and says we should heed the words of writer DH Lawrence, who wrote in his essay 'Education of the People': 

"How to educate a child. First rule: leave him alone. Second rule: leave him alone. Third rule: leave him alone. That is the whole beginning."

You can read an interesting article by Tom Hodgkinson on Idle Parenting here. To buy his book, click here.

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Monday, 8 September 2014

Blogs I Love

The blogosphere is a big place. When I scroll through my own Twitter feed it would seem literally everyone out there is at it, and I can't help but sometimes yearn for the simplicity of the world before the web, when the written word was confined to books, newspapers and magazines. The blogosphere can be a noisy place, too, with countless demands on your attention, coming at you from all angles, thanks to the intrusive nature of social media. As a writer of a blog myself, I'm obviously guilty as charged but I do frequently question the quality of my own blog and try to adhere to a policy that it's better to keep quiet if you don't actually have anything interesting to say. 

But all that said, there are some great blogs out there, which - un-tethered by character counts and business requirements - are free to offer a more personal, honest view of the world at large, whether you're into fashion, food, politics of whatever. Blogs long ago replaced traditional media as my 'go to' place for ideas and inspiration and as an erstwhile magazine junkie they give me a hit of easily digestible inspiration on the things I love without spending a penny. 

So, here are five blogs I like to visit when I want to pick up ideas, look a lovely images and read well thought-out, interesting content...

The Frugality 




Alex Stedman's thoughtful blog bridges the gap between high fashion and the high street. As a fashion stylist who's worked on magazines such as Red, she has an obvious eye for style but keeps things realistic (unlike many fashion magazines) by sharing her budget-friendly interpretations of the latest trends. Her wardrobe is insanely stylish but also accessible and her writing style has a warmth and 'normal-ness' to it that is often lacking with other fashion writers. Alex also covers eating out and travel on her blog. I particularly love her 'postcards from' posts and tips on stylish travel on a budget.

Lucy Laucht - These Foreign Lands




Lucy may not be the most prolific of bloggers (she's too busy uploading the most incredible photos to Instagram) but if you fancy imagining what life might be like if you were a hip creative in Brooklyn who likes to spend their weekends travelling around the States (and further afield) in a camper van, this is a good place to live out the fantasy. Straddling the worlds of travel and fashion, the look of this blog is just gorgeous, and it's peppered with dreamy, stylish images that make you want to book your next holiday pronto.


Selina Lake




For an instant hit of colour-filled interior design inspiration, I always check out Selina's pretty blog first. As the author of several interior design books, Selina's trademark is the dreamy, vintage-style design that I love so much, and her blog is a great place to pick up ideas whether you're planning a complete room overhaul, are looking for themes for a wedding or want tips for sprucing up your garden. A lovely place to lose yourself in for an hour or so.

An Affair with Italy




Every so often, I need my 'Italy fix' so it's very helpful that an entire blog is dedicated to a love of all things Italian. It also helps that the blog features some stunning images courtesy of a fashion photographer who manages to capture the style and beauty of the country in all its multi-faceted glory. If you're planning a trip to Italy, this is a good place to do some research - there's a whole travel directory featuring places to stay, eat and shop, whatever your budget. And if  you can't get to Italy anytime soon, you can gorge on stunning images, find out about Italian eateries nearer to home or try out recipes from top chefs and recreate la dolce vita in your very own kitchen.

All blog images courtesy of The Frugality, Deliciously Ella, Lucy Laucht, Selina Lake and An Affair With Italy.
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Tuesday, 12 August 2014

A Day Trip to the Forest

With the summer slowly ebbing away and UK weather patterns returning to the standard mix of sunshine and showers (read torrential rain) last weekend, we were looking for somewhere to go for the day that wasn't too far from Bristol but would allow for some exercise and a last gasp of sunshine ahead of a week that was forecast to be miserable. After discounting the beach (perhaps not a good option when the tail end of a hurricane looms on the horizon) and a train trip to Cheltenham (too many tempting shopping opportunities) we ended up packing a picnic and heading off to the Forest of Dean, or specifically the Sculpture Trail at Beechenhurst. 


Ticking the boxes for being cheap (just petrol costs and parking - £3.50 for the whole day – to consider) and not being too far away if the weather should turn really foul, this is a great place for a family day out. About an hours drive from Bristol, this particular part of the forest offers some lovely surroundings to explore, as well as some unusual, natural sculptures to spot en route.


The trail is accessed via Beechenhurst Lodge where you’ll find plenty of parking, information (including maps of the trail), toilets and a café. There’s also a lovely children’s play area, with sections for both toddlers and older children – a great place to hang out and have a cuppa from the café before you head home. If you're bringing a picnic there's a large, flat grassed area in front of the lodge where you can lay out your blanket, play some ball games or just relax before or after your walk.


The full trail might be a bit ambitious for younger kids, being 3.5 miles long, but you can do a portion that suits you and there are signposted short cuts to help you keep distances manageable for little legs. There are plenty of places to rest along the way, with lovely, tranquil spots where you can build dens, walk along logs or just sit on a tree stump and drink it all in. The sculptures are designed to blend in with the natural surroundings and aren't hugely obvious, particularly for kids, who may be expecting something with a bit more 'wow' factor. That said, be sure to look out for the hanging stained glass window, which casts an ethereal glow over the surrounding trees. The sculptures are really a bit of an aside to the simple pleasure of walking in some peaceful, magical surroundings, away from the crowds. If you're lucky you might also spot a wild boar as we did on our travels... 


If you’re looking for an alternative attraction in the Forest of Dean, try Puzzlewood. If there was ever a place to define the idea of a magical wood, this is it – Puzzlewood is an otherworldly place of ancient trees, moss-covered rocks, labyrinthine pathways and rickety wooden bridges. It's really quite spectacular and quite probably unlike anywhere you've ever been before.Walking around this strange environment you can see why Puzzlewood regularly crops up as background dressing for dramas such as Merlin an Dr Who. It's also rumoured to have been the inspiration for Tolkien's Middle Earth forests. There's an outdoor and indoor maze, toddler racing track, playground and cafe here, too, and at just £22 for a family ticket, pretty good value for a family day out.


If you'd like longer to explore this lovely corner of the country, a good accommodation option is the Forest Holidays outpost at Coleford. Bed down in well-equipped, high-spec cabins (ranging from standard options to more luxurious cabins equipped with outdoor hot tubs; some even have their own adjoining tree house!) and enjoy direct access to the forest with its many cycle trains and walking routes. We visited a couple of years back when the complex first opened so we enjoyed the facilities at their shiniest, newest best, plus we paid next to nothing for a three-day break. Prices are substantially higher now Forest Holidays have become much more established, but you can still get reasonable deals out of season, or if you're able to stay during week outside of peak times. If you can travel in a larger group and split the cost between you, prices even out quite significantly. 
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Monday, 4 August 2014

Summer So Far...

The six-week summer break can stir up mixed feelings in parents up and down the land. Shrugging off the wearying routine of getting little people out of the house on time (and then navigating the inevitable stress of getting yourself to work, too) is a wonderful thing, but it's often replaced with the equally stressful job of balancing holiday fun with financial reality, as well as coping with the eternal problem of childcare cover for those days that you work. It's no wonder that many of us can't get to the school gate quick enough come September!

At the risk of tempting fate, our summer break has so far been pretty successful. With a run of good weather, we've managed to avoid unreasonable amounts of screen time or costly trips to indoor,  rainy-day activities. We've covered beach, hills and city so far and we've all got some healthy colour in our cheeks. 

Here are three recommendations for summer fun, based on what we've been getting up to over the past couple of weeks...



1. Get on your bikes

An activity that wins approval from both kids or adults. If you can't face another trip to the park or refereeing football matches than inevitably turn fractious, try getting out the bikes instead. Cycling any great distance is obviously age and ability dependent, but if your kids are over seven you'll be surprised at just how far you can get on a family ride. Living in Bristol - the UK's first 'Cycling City' - helps as there are some fantastic flat routes that are do-able with little ones in tow. Start with the Avon Gorge tow-path to Pill, a lovely little route with a good stopping place for snacks or a picnic on the green just before you get to Pill harbour. The terrain is nice and flat pretty much all of the way, and you pass through some really tranquil countryside. On your way back, you could continue on the railway track towards the harbour and stop at the docks for coffee or a stroll around the M Shed museum (entry is free.)

A little further afield is the Strawberry Line, a scenic route that cuts through some really lovely Somerset countryside, beginning at Yatton and finishing at Cheddar. It's 9 miles one way, which might be too far for younger children, but you can just do a portion of the route, perhaps stopping at a country pub en route to sample some of the local cider (and freshly squeezed apple juice for the kids.)If you do make it as far as Cheddar you can cool down after your ride by descending into the famous Cheddar caves for a subterranean experience your kids will love. 

Visit Sustrans for details of cycling routes across the UK.


2. Hit the beach

A no-brainer if the sun is shining. We return again and again to Lyme Regis, about an hour and a half from Bristol on a good day and a place that just works for us. It's the right side of busy (though the sandy area of the bay can get uncomfortably cramped on a sunny day), has safe, shallow waters and a mix both sand and pebbles. The only real hint of seaside tackiness is the promenade arcade (which comes into its own in the case of a sudden downpour) but on the whole Lyme Regis is a pretty stylish place. Pastel-coloured beach huts line the beachfront and there are some cute cafes on the front and in the town. We like the Town Mill Bakery, an organic cafe and bakery where you can feast on artisan breads, delicious cakes or enjoy a traditional Dorset cream tea. For something a little more chi-chi, esteemed chef Mark Hix has an outpost here at the Hix Oyster and Fish House, smart restaurant overlooking the harbour.

There always seems to be something happening at Lyme Regis, too. On our most recent visit here was a bath tub race going on and on previous visits we've seen air displays and lifeboat launches - exciting viewing to keep kids entertained without spending a penny.

If you're looking for somewhere to camp in the area, I recommend 
Hook Farm in Uplyme, just five minutes in the car from the centre of Lyme Regis. It's a clean, well laid-out site, with both pitches and static caravans. It was packed with young families when we were last there, plus there is a small play section and wooded area towards the back of the site which the kids can explore.



3. Take on the capital

I used to be scared of visiting London with my kids. Despite having lived there for years and knowing my way around, the idea of depositing the kids in the thick of all that hustle and bustle used to bring me out in a cold sweat. But having visited London several times with the kids now - most recently without my other half - I know I won't actually lose one of them or accidentally leave them on the tube. The key is to word them up before you leave on staying close to you(and perhaps leave your phone number somewhere about their person, or make sure they've committed it to memory) and to keep your expectations reasonable. Stick to one main activity rather than trying to pack too much in and factor in plenty of pit-stops. I keep costs down by cashing in my Clubcard points for restaurant tokens so we can enjoy a big, energy-restoring lunch and use our Family and Friends Railcard to get a third off our tickets. 


Travel while in London is cheap - kids don't pay on the tube or buses until they're 11 years old. And of course while you're there, there are lots of free activities to enjoy. Be warned that you need to get to key free attractions like the Natural History and Science museums early to beat the queues. If you do find there's a big queue, cross the road to the V&A which never seems to have a queue and is definitely worth a look, even though it's not as obviously kid-friendly as the other museums in the area. Girls particularly will love strolling around the fashion exhibits, but there's appeal for boys too, with amazing sculptures, ceramics and artworks to look at, as well as a whole section devoted to technology from the past. Stop for snacks at the gorgeous Morris, Poynter and Gamble rooms - your kids will love the theatricality of these rooms, with their huge, glittering lights, ornate stained glass and colourful tiles. 



On our most recent trip we spent a day in Greenwich, a great place to escape the crowds of the West End and enjoy some green space and amazing views over the city. You can also visit another free museum here, the National Maritime Museum which is full of interesting model ships and exhibits that chart sailing history through the ages. There are lots of dedicated children's areas with hands-on exhibits to keep them occupied. Then, meander through the market to pick up lunch (everything from Italian panini to tailor-made sushi is on offer) and eat your treats in front of the Cutty Sark. You can pay to take a closer look above and below deck. 

A real highlight for our kids on this trip was a ride on the Thames Clipper, which you can pick up from Greenwich Pier and which goes back into town, stopping at Embankment. It's a low-cost, fun way to see London from the water, taking in some key sights and traversing beneath the famous Tower Bridge. Prices are really reasonable and you can use your Oyster card to pay for your journey. 

For more tips on travelling to London with kids, take a look at my previous blog post here. 


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Monday, 7 July 2014

Six Great Summer Reads

Heading off somewhere sunny and looking for something to read while on your travels? When it comes to buying books I love a personal recommendation. Since having kids reading has become a bit of a precious luxury so when I pick up a book I really want it to deliver - I just don't have the time or energy anymore to plod along with a book that turns out not to be my thing or doesn't live up to expectations. And there are few things as disappointing as cracking open a new book on holiday to find it leaves you thoroughly underwhelmed. 

Of course taste in books is a very personal thing - if you've ever been in a book club (I have) you'll know just how passionately one book can divide people. But you've got to start somewhere and browsing Amazon with its overwhelming choice and contradictory reviews can leave you struggling to find what you're looking for. So I've collated six books I reckon make great additions to your suitcase - these are books I've enjoyed on holidays recent and past, and which I hope provide some inspiration for your own holiday reading...




Beautiful Ruins by Jess Walter

I'll admit it was the retro-style Penguin cover that first attracted me to this book. And it's partly set in Italy - another bonus. This is one of the most unusual books I've read and I was utterly engrossed in its multi-stranded storyline that weaves between 1960s Italy and present-day Hollywood, with the doomed Burton-Taylor love story played out in the background. It tells the story of a beautiful actress who comes to Italy to star in the ill-fated film of Cleopatra, alongside the aforementioned star-crossed lovers. But when a scandal breaks on set, said actress is whisked away to a remote corner of the Ligurian coast, where she meets the humble hotel-owner Pasquale Tursi. Fast-foward fifty years, and Pasquale shows up in Hollywood to locate the woman he fell in love with all those years ago, and comes to understand that the glittering facade of Hollywood hides some murky, sometimes tragic, realities. A really unusual, captivating novel.

Hideous Kinky by Esther Freud

Perfect reading if you're going somewhere hot and dusty. I loved this short and sweet novel when I first read it years ago and loved it even more when I read it on my first trip to Morocco. Esther's mum is the kind of mum I would love to be in a parallel universe: nomadic, adventurous and free-spirited. Of course, as the book shows, refusing to be tethered down by convention isn't actually that practical when you have two young children in tow. As Esther's mum tries to find herself in 1970's Marrakesh, Esther and her sister Bea are left to roam free in a city that is at once magical and frightening, leaving them torn between wanting to share in their mother's hunger for new experiences but also yearning for routine and order in their often chaotic lives. A funny and magical read that has a truly strong sense of place.

Divine Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood by Rebecca Wells

One of the most charming, heart-warming books I've read, this 1996 novel is a book that makes you laugh and cry in equal measure. You may have seen the film which - as is often the case with book-to-film adaptations - is nowhere near as good as the original novel, a lovely story of friendship and an examination of the complicated, often fraught bond between mother and daughter. At the heart of the novel is Vivi, a feisty Southern Belle and the colourful figurehead of the Ya-Yas, a group of gals who are bent on defying convention in 1930s Louisiana. As children they have fun and cause chaos, and as grown-ups their bond grows ever stronger as they realise that they can only push the boundaries of southern conservatism and convention so far. Now in their 70s, the ladies are brought together once more to help mend Vivi's broken relationship with her daughter Siddalee. Can their handbook for life - "The Divine Secrets of the Ya Ya Sisterhood" - help mother and daughter to find their way back to each other?

The Age of Miracles by Karen Thompson Walker

If you like to feel a little unsettled when lying on your sun lounger then I recommend this thought-provoking novel, which I read on holiday last year. Julia is 11 and on the cusp of adolescence. Her life in suburban California is predictable and unremarkable. Until she turns on the TV one normal Saturday and everything changes. The rotation of the earth has started to slow down and life as Julia knows it is about to change forever. As the days become longer and the distinction between day and night blurs, Julia and her family have to navigate a new world order in which communities become tribal and uncertainty hangs over each new day...a riveting read that will have your mind whirring with questions and 'what ifs?' long after you've turned the last page. 

The Talented Mr Ripley by Patricia Highsmith

Tom Ripley is a masterpiece creation. Joining his journey from New York to Italy is a gripping rollercoaster of a ride as it soon becomes clear that Ripley isn't just a harmless impersonator, but a damaged sociopath whose actions leave a trail of death and destruction in his wake. What's so clever about the book is that despite knowing that Ripley is a loser with an unhinged personality, you can't help but root for him at times during the book, particularly when he's catapulted into the privileged, spoilt world of Dickie Greenleaf and his Ivy League friends. There's never a dull moment in this book - the perfect poolside thriller. 

The Light Between Oceans by M.L Steadman

If you fancy being transported to the other side of the world this book is a good choice and a breathtaking, heart-rending read. Set in a remote Australian community on the edge of the Great Southern Ocean, this is the story of a Tom Sherbourne and his wife Isabel, keepers of the lighthouse on Janus Rock. Much in love but heartbroken by their inability to have children, fate intervenes in the shape of a baby that washes up on shore and places a life-changing choice on their shoulders. The choice they make has cataclysmic consequences for both Tom and Isabel, the baby and a woman named Hannah Roennfeldt. This is a gripping, heartbreaking story that asks questions around the issues of personal happiness and moral responsibilities - a compelling and moving story.
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Thursday, 26 June 2014

Florence With Children

It's fair to say that Florence isn't the most obvious place to take children. For children under 10 there aren't really any obvious 'hooks' - no theme parks, river boats or big, open spaces - to grab their attention, and although there's pizza, pasta and ice cream in abundance, there's only so much of that stuff you can eat in any one day. If you have older children or teenagers, however, or if you find yourself in the enviable position of having a child-free weekend at your disposal, Florence makes a beautiful setting in which to soak up a bit of culture. When we recently visited with our 6 and 10 year old, we were pleasantly surprised by their appetite for exploration and willingness to go with the flow. 



Whether you have children in tow or not, avoid visiting Florence in July and August - high summer here is literally steaming, and the tightly packed, medieval streets that criss-cross the city seem to hold the heat, turning it into one giant, boiling cauldron...not conducive to a busy schedule of sightseeing. That said, come in January or February and it can be freezing, so Spring and early Autumn are the best times to plan your visit. 

While Florence does have a small airport, most international airlines fly into Pisa, a route served by EasyJet in the UK. At the other side you can get to Florence by train or coach, a journey time of just over an hour. Trains to Florence's Santa Maria Novella Station run frequently and the service is cheap. Be warned that until January 2015 there is no direct train from Pisa Airport due to major engineering works, so you need to make your way to Pisa's central station to travel on to Florence. 



So, what to do when you reach this legendary cultural hotspot? Whether you have children with you or not, my advice would be to pace yourself. There's so much to see that it can be overwhelming. Of course, I'm assuming you have at least some interest in art and history; it you don't, Florence really isn't for you! If you do, you'll quickly realise that the key attractions come with epic, round-the-block queues. Don't bother with the Uffizi, Michelangelo's David or the Cathedral Bell Tower if you're visiting with kids - they'll become quickly dispirited if joining an endless queue forms the main part of their day. But if you're on your own, do try and squeeze in a visit to see David - it's one of life's bucket-list experiences. Don't forget you can take the kids to see the replica David standing proud in the Piazza della Signoria - a much more child-friendly way to feel like you've 'done' a bit of Michelangelo.

We managed to make it into the Duomo and my favourite church in Florence, Santa Croce. Both are spectacular inside. The latter houses some beautiful frescoes by Giotto as well as the tombstones of luminaries such as Michelangelo and Gallileo. It's a very peaceful, awe-inspiring place to spend some time. But if churches aren't your thing I would recommend visiting one of Florence's smaller museums if you want something a bit more manageable than the Uffizi - the Bargello is a good option. 

For something completely free, head over to the Piazza della Signoria, a large, picturesque square where your kids can let off some steam and look at some sculptures in the Loggia dei Lanzi, a sort of outdoor bit of the Uffizi. When you're here you're just a few moments' walk to the Ponte Vecchio, a real must-see and the perfect venue to watch the sun set over the Arno. 



For a more bohemian, less touristy outlook of the city, continue across the bridge, arriving in the Oltrarno area - the equivalent of Paris' Left Bank. You could head over to the Boboli Gardens while you're here, one of the few green spaces in Florence, where you can wander around formal gardens and fountains - a good place for a picnic. Piazza Santa Spirito encapsulates the bohemian vibe of this area and is a good place for a coffee - the square is lined with some cool cafes and bars with an alternative feel. Our kids spent ages chasing pigeons on the steps of Santo Spirito church.

Further out still is the pretty church of San Minato al Monte, on a hill overlooking the city. Take the bus and stop off first at Piazzale Michelangelo, the only place to get a truly panoramic, breathtaking view of Florence's unique skyline. It's worth paying a bit extra for a coffee at the outside cafe so you can lap up the views while the kids enjoy an ice cream. 

Back in the heart of the city a trip to the Mercato Centrale makes for a diverting change from art history. This massive food market is a great place to wander round with kids and there some truly eye-popping foods to feast your eyes on, from huge slabs of cheese and exotic seafood to salumerie hung with spicy salami, Parma ham and wild boar. Your kids might not be so keen on the stalls selling tripe, a particularly revered local speciality. It's bustling, noisy and colourful and there are lots of opportunities for tasting. Upstairs has a more up-market, trendy feel, where you can stop for a coffee and a cake or enjoy a wood-fired pizza and a beer; a great, good value option for family eating. 

While you're in this area you might as well stroll through the market stalls of San Lorenzo and let the kids choose a tacky souvenir or Italian football shirt. You could then walk the short distance to the pretty church of Santa Maria Novella, with its distinctive stripy facade, and then walk a little further to the gorgeous Farmacia Santa Maria Novella, an old-fashioned pharmacy selling amazing perfumes, colognes and tinctures based on recipes dating back some 400 years. You're quite welcome to take a look around and have a spritz of cologne even if you don't intend to buy.

When it comes to eating and drinking, there are limitless options at all price ranges, but anywhere really central might be beyond your budget (and not always the most authentic.) A great option for lunchtimes are the hole-in-the-wall pannini and pizza places - tiny little shops where you can get a slice of pizza or a hunk of ciabatta with porchetta and a glass of Chianti to be taken away or simply eaten right there on the street. All' Antico Vinaio on Via dei Neri is perhaps the city's most famous paninoteca - be prepared to queue for one of its legendary pannini or schiacciata (flatbreads) stuffed with tasty fillings. We also ate a delicious, good value lunch at Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, another good option for filling sandwiches to eat on the hop.



For your afternoon pick-me-up don't miss Vivoli, generally regarded as Florence's best gelateria - your kids will love choosing from the extensive range of sublime flavours on offer. If you feel like splashing out on a posh cappuccino, the cafes around the Piazza della Republica are particularly chic and you can watch the world go by from the outside terraces. Another nice spot is Scuderi, an elegant cafe, patisserie and sweet shop right next to the Duomo. 

For something more substantial, some of the best value options can be found over the river, where you can avoid the tourist traps serving over-priced Italian standards and eat the more authentic, meaty fare for which Florence is famous. We had an amazing meal at Trattoria 4 Leoni which occupies the corner of a pretty square and has lots of outdoor dining space. The food here pretty special and affordable - highly recommended.

I'd advise doing some research before you go as there are so many restaurants in Florence it can be hard to make a choice - we found this article on the Guardian website helpful in seeking out some budget-friendly options. 



Florence might not be ideal as a base if you have young kids but it's definitely worth adding to your itinerary if you're looking to stay in the surrounding Tuscan countryside and do the odd day trip. It's also not the cheapest place you can visit but you can cut down on costs by staying in an apartment or a budget-friendly hotel. On a visit to Florence pre-kids we stayed at the Hotel Globus, near San Lorenzo market. That trip was some years back, so I can't personally vouch for its quality now, but we thought it was fantastic value back then, and the TripAdvisor reviews are very positive - take a look here. You can visit the hotel's own website here.

If you'd like to read more tips on travelling with children to Florence and Tuscany take a look at my other blog posts here and here.

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