A Second Summer of Love in Ibiza

Half way into our second visit to the White Isle I found myself googling "English School Ibiza." Window shopping took on a new meaning as I found myself drawn not to Ibiza Town's boutiques but its estate agents instead. And I spent a good few hours distracted from my holiday reading by considering the feasibility of buying a holiday apartment in our complex (sadly not really feasible in my current financial circumstances.) 

I never expected to feel this way about Ibiza but it's true what they say - there's a unique and special magic about this place that has me well and truly under its spell.

So what is it about this island that makes it so different to other destinations in the Med? Like other places in Southern Europe, it's got all those classic associations of summer holidays - sunshine, olive groves, sandy beaches and cicadas - but there's another something Ibiza brings to the mix, a hard to quantify ambiance that you just don't get elsewhere. 

With a long heritage of being a place of hedonism, experimentation and liberalism, Ibiza has - despite attracting an increasingly monied clientele - a very inclusive, welcoming feel about it. There's a sense that anything is possible here and the zest for life of its lucky inhabitants permeates the island. There's a lot of joy and playfulness in Ibiza and coming back to the UK after a two-week break can feel a dispiriting and grey experience. 

But before you get to enjoy the wonder of the island, you do need to steel yourself for what can be a "lively" outbound journey. Those with a low tolerance of stag and hen parties might struggle to contemplate a 2.5 hour journey surrounded by large groups looking forward to the prospect of a holiday in San Antonio. In our case, we were surrounded by a group of about 20 lads hitting the island's notorious resort for a "three day bender." Sitting behind a couple of them made for informative listening - let's just say that my nine year old now knows the best place to purchase drugs on the San An strip...

But if you can grit your teeth, be assured that Ibiza is not in any way defined by the bright lights and brash nightlife of San An, and you'll find a completely different side to the island everywhere else. Our base just outside Santa Eularia offered easy access to all corners of the island - the great thing about Ibiza is that no journey seems to take longer than 40 minutes making wider exploration of the island really easy. I'd definitely recommend getting a hire car if you want to experience Ibiza properly - it's the only way to explore some of the less obvious beauty spots on the island's stunning coastline, as well as penetrating its tranquil rural heartland. 

New discoveries on this trip included some breathtaking beaches on the Northern Coast, the least developed part of the island. This is my favourite corner of Ibiza, a tranquil and authentic mix of lovely villages and idyllic coves where the water is spectacularly clear and the snorkelling is outstanding. We loved the tiny Cala Xuclar and the blissful S'illot des Rencli, both of which are blessed with incredible waters swimming with an array of fish. 

Inland, Sant Joan is the epitome of Ibiza's hippy identity, a sleepy village that comes to life on market day (Sundays) and features a smattering of lovely cafes and restaurants, including the outstanding Giri Cafe. On the expensive side, we opted to combine a visit to the market with breakfast in the Giri's gorgeous gardens - a truly lovely treat that didn't dent our wallets too badly. 

Brimming with atmosphere and lovely things to buy, the Sant Joan market encapsulates Ibiza's creative and colourful vibe - it's the kind of place where proper old school hippies rub shoulders with beautiful girls selling handmade espadrilles, and open air yoga sessions take place amongst the stalls. A little further up the road lies another of our favourite discoveries this year - the amazing Los Enamorados, a boutique hotel, bar, shop and restaurant in Portinatx. 

A stunning 1960s hotel, this quirky space is a retro lover's dream. Filled with mid-century furniture, '60s glassware and armchairs covered in loud palm tree-printed upholstery, Los Enamorados combines an amazing aesthetic with a lovely position overlooking a quiet bay away from the more touristy end of the town. 

The perfect setting for a sundowner, when I wasn't gawping at the view I was making lots of mental notes for integrating a bit of '60s Ibiza into my own home (do have a look in the gallery to see how pleasing the owners' vision is.)

If '60s-style boutique hotels don't really do it for your children, head up to the Can Marca caves close to San Miquel for something totally different. An underground wonderland brought to life with atmospheric lighting and music, these remarkable caves offer a fun alternative to beaches and swimming pools. 

Heading South, a real highlight of our trip was a visit to the cosmopolitan Cala d'Hort beach, a lovely bay overlooking the famous Es Vedra rock. Come dusk, we headed up to the cliffs for an experience that no visitor to the island should miss - sunset casting a pinky hue over the mystical landmark that has inspired all sorts of myths and legends over the years. It's the perfect place to watch the sun dip into the sea, although in August you'll be joined by quite a lot of other onlookers. 

But there's something very lovely about the elemental experience of a group of people quietly observing this everyday happening. And the sunsets in Ibiza really are very special, inspiring the crowds to speak in hushed voices and clap when the sun finally disappears on the horizon. 

We fell in love with other discoveries on the coastline too - tranquil Cala Mastella on the East Coast for its unspoilt, undiscovered feel (despite being the location of the highly regarded El Bigotes restaurant); S'Estanyol, a lovely bay a short distance from Ibiza Town and venue for one of our blow-out lunches (at the gorgeous Cala Bonita - expensive but idyllic beach-side dining); and Cala Saladeta, an impossibly beautiful sandy beach with breathtaking turquoise waters just 5 minutes from San Antonio. 

We returned to old haunts also, which didn't disappoint second time around - the rural restaurant of La Paloma was every bit as magical as I remembered it, shopping in Sluiz was mental and Ibiza Town was as vibrant and exciting as ever - we even got to see some of the famed club parades this time around and finally made it to S'Escalinata for cocktails. 

Another highlight which we loved first time around was Las Dalias, the venue for our have-kids-will-club experience. Host to a brilliant club night called Acid Sundays, it's a great place to soak up the inimitable spirit of Ibiza's club culture without having to pay epic entry fees. Colourful and fun, this place is everything I love about Ibiza - it's a celebration of life for anyone and everyone, with all ages and nationalities welcome to join the party. 

But all good parties have to come to an end and my children have made noises about trying somewhere different next summer. So perhaps Ibiza in the spring might be nice for a change? Or maybe we'll fit in a child-free weekend so I can realise my ambition to dance the night away in Pacha. One thing's for sure - I'm not ready to put Ibiza out of my mind just yet...

You can read my previous blog post about Ibiza for more travel recommendations here. 

Family Camping in Devon

Things I like: walls, being warm, running water, privacy. So, based on this short but not inconsequential list, you'd imagine that I might have a bit of a problem with the concept of camping. If you add in the fact that I'm pretty useless at following diagrammatic instructions, have a very low patience threshold and don't much like insects, you can easily see that me and camping aren't really natural bedfellows.

But here's the thing - I absolutely love being outdoors. And you know what camping does? It makes you be outdoors pretty much all of the time. I don't come from a camping family but when we moved back to the West country after a decade in London, buying a tent was one of the first things we did. With access to an incredible wealth of coast and countryside on our doorstep - coupled with significantly reduced income after we became parents - I was ready to embrace a brave new world of tents, fleeces and blow-up beds. 

Some 12 years on since our first camping trip to Cornwall - an interesting experience with a sleep-averse two-year-old - I've come to really love it and truly relish that first trip of the season. Bringing down our gear from the loft provides a feeling not dissimilar to unearthing the box of Christmas decorations; while I know in reality each camping experience - just like each Christmas - will bring its own challenges, I love what that box of head torches, plastic plates and sleeping bags signifies: family time, relaxation and a temporary suspension of normal routines.

That's not to say I enjoy putting a tent up or relish cooking a family meal on a camping stove - both these activities can colour my language quite strongly. And I'm definitely a fair-weather camper - I've spent enough evenings wearing five layers of clothes and sitting in a sleeping bag to know that my Mediterranean temperament isn't suited to harsh outdoor weather conditions. But when the weather's on your side, you've got all the gear and you're sitting in a field as the sun sets, glass of rose in hand, there's really nothing like it. You just don't get the same experience in a 5-star hotel (well, you might, but I wouldn't know.)

For our first trip of this season, we headed to Devon and the lovely Strawfields camp site, just outside Ilfracombe. The antithesis of those very regimented, characterless sites filled with rows of tents and caravans, Strawfields is a much more rustic, natural affair. Limited to just a handful of pitches, there are two fields you can camp on, both overlooking the the unspoilt Devonshire countryside. 

Strawfields also offers a safari tent and shepherd's hut to stay in, as well as a couple of cottages at the other end of the site. During our stay we had a field all to ourselves - that's the kind of camping I love. With space to spill out and room to run around and kick a ball about, this was a wonderful bonus for our family of claustrophobic city dwellers. 

Another big advantage is that Strawfields provides fire pits - an absolute necessity if you want to enjoy being outdoors for as long as possible. Seriously, a fire pit changes everything. They truly enhance the camping experience, not just by keeping you warm but by providing a focal point to your evenings. There's something so lovely about seeing your normally phone obsessed teenager entranced by the vision of a flickering fire, plus, of course, you get to toast marshmallows on it. 

At the risk of sounding saccharine, we've had some of our most memorable family moments gathered round a camp fire - there's something so very simple about building and sitting round a fire that I defy any parent not to get a bit mushy after they've spent an hour or two sitting in its glow, children happily distracted from their gadgets.

Rustic but pretty toilet and shower facilities are provided - I was able to get a hot shower each morning, plus there are a proper flushing loos on the site. Forget concrete shower blocks, trailing the smell of strong bleach; the facilities here are made from natural materials and look out across the fields. 

Nearby you'll find plenty of things to do. While I found Ilfracombe itself a little unappealing, you don't have to travel far to find less commercialised options. Saunton Sands is a huge expanse of beach, backed by sand dunes and dotted with colourful beach huts. This part of Devon is very much surfing territory, with the famed Croyde beach also nearby should you want to get your fix of wetsuit-based watersports.

We spent a lovely day at the tranquil Lee Bay, much more my kind of beach. Located in a pretty cove about 15 minutes drive from Strawfields, this beach makes a wonderful place to explore at low tide (though you do need to be aware of tide times as some of the beach gets cut off at certain points in the day.) With just a cafe overlooking the cove, it's a quiet, undeveloped spot and I loved it. 

There are highly regarded coastal walks on offer around this area, too, though we were too lazy to countenance doing anything that energetic on this trip. Instead, we opted to travel inland to Exmoor where we spent a restful afternoon hanging out at the legendary beauty spot Tarr Steps. Characterised by an ancient clapper bridge that crosses a crystal clear Exmoor stream, it's an idyllic place for a paddle and a picnic. There's also a great tea room and pub overlooking the stream should you fancy partaking in the tradition of a Devon Cream Tea. 

En route to Tarr Steps we stopped at the Guardian recommended Royal Oak pub in Withypool, a truly authentic Exmoor pub serving outstanding pub classics - we loved it. Exmoor is a spectacular place for a drive or a walk - I'd liked to have explored this lovely corner of Devon a bit more, but we'll leave that for next time.

If you're a camping virgin or perhaps a reluctant camper who just hasn't quite got the concept - and I truly can understand why you might feel this way - I would thoroughly recommend investing in the right gear and a box of camping essentials you can stow away in your loft so they're good to go for your next trip. I can't recommend getting the best sleeping gear you can afford highly enough - cotton, duvet-style sleeping bags have transformed my enjoyment of camping. We have this one from Coleman - can't say I find it aesthetically pleasing, but it's totally snuggly while allowing your skin to breath. Good airbeds are another game-changer.

You'll need all the obvious extras - chairs, camping stove, etc - but I've found it really useful to have a dedicated box of camping essentials. At the end of each trip I top up as necessary so we always have the following items - all of which I guarantee you'll need - in our camping box at all times: 

• Loads of torches and head torches for night time loo trips
• Lanterns
• tea towel
• J cloths
• Baby wipes
• Melamine crockery and standard kitchen utensils and cutlery
• Lighter
• Corkscrew (really important)
• Matches
• Water carrier
• Tea bags (also very important)
• Food basics - salt, sugar, oil etc.
• Tin opener
• First Aid kit
• Washing line and pegs
• Dustpan and brush
• Toilet roll
• Bin bags
• Washing up bowl and washing up liquid
• Antiseptic wipes

Happy camping! 

For more information about Strawfields, visit the website here.

A Weekend in Hay-on-Wye

There's a long list of places on my travel bucket list, mainly overseas and - unfortunately - not places I see myself getting to anytime soon. So I've decided to make 2016 the year I explore my UK bucket list - a cheaper and more convenient way to sate my wanderlust, plus there are a lot of places in our green and pleasant land I'd really like to acquaint myself with...Salcome, Whitstable, the trough of Bowland, to name just a few.

Hay-on-Wye was on my list too, until I had the pleasure of crossing it off on a recent trip over half term. If you have a passing interest in books, like exploring beautiful countryside and can think of worse ways to spend an evening than cosying up in a traditional pub, you'll probably love Hay as much as I did.

First, the bookshops. The place is heaving with them, but they're not like your local Waterstones. The bookshops in Hay are all independent, quirky places, filled with antiquarian delights for serious collectors as well as contemporary, first-hand books. These are places to browse for hours and pick up hidden gems, rare editions or specialist books covering every subject under the sun. If you've ever been to the delightful Daunt Books in London, that gives some flavour of what Hay's all about.

Don't miss a browse around Richard Booth's bookshop, one of the larger shops in the town, characterised by a gorgeous tile-clad facade. Inside the atmosphere is tranquil and genteel, with three floors of book-filled rooms, including a Folio Society reading area. Downstairs there's a lovely cafe - we popped in for coffee and cake but watched enviously as other diners enjoyed what looked like delicious brunch options.

Aside from bookshops, Hay's small but bustling centre is a great mix of cute cafes, gastro pubs and leftfield independents. I can't remember seeing one chain, aside from the odd building society or bank and one Spar. There is a good size Co-Op just off the main high street which is useful if you're self catering. 

If you're an urbane sort who likes to know where you're next macchiato is coming from, you'll love The Old Electric Shop, a cavernous shop and cafe filled with retro furniture, vintage clothing and the sort of curios that you'd probably pay a lot more for in Shoreditch. 

Another shop that caught my eye was was The End, a tiny, two-floor treasure trove filled with all sorts of interesting pieces for your home - I wasn't really after a massive cat head, but I was sorely temped to buy said item when I stumbled upon it, in amongst some lovely textiles, antique mirrors and edgy taxidermy.

The beauty of Hay doesn't lie solely in retail opportunities, though. It enjoys a wonderful location nestled on the Welsh borders, close to the river Wye, Offa's Dyke, the Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountains. We were lucky to have dry weather during our stay, but it was a bit too cold and grey for any major exploration. A wander along the Wye is a lovely way to stretch the legs, and on warmer days I'd imagine this makes a great spot for a picnic.

If you're into hill walking, don't miss a trip to the nearby Hay Bluff, a peaceful spot with impressive views across the surrounding hills. It was covered in snow when we visited so we were unable to climb to its summit, but it's a wonderful place to fill your lungs with air and enjoy some unbroken tranquility. 

Post-hike, you'll want warming up at a cosy pub - we found Hay's Blue Boar the best place for this, though there are plenty of other pubs to choose from in the vicinity. For food, we enjoyed fish and chips from Terris on the High Street as well as a delicious meal at the top-rated tapas restaurant Tomatitos. The atmosphere here is informal and friendly, and the food really authentic and good value. 

Our base for the weekend was a fantastic Airbnb find - 'Haybreaks' - which was perfect for our requirements - central location, budget-friendly and equipped with everything you might need on a short break. With two double bedrooms and two bathrooms, it's a perfect base for families and is situated on the main high street so everything is within easy distance. Our hosts were lovely, leaving us chocolate and prosecco to enjoy, and the apartment was absolutely spotless and filled with lovely furnishings, toiletries and essentials. I can't recommend this place highly enough.

Next up, Edinburgh and my very first trip to Scotland...

For more information on Hay-on-Wye, visit the tourist board website here.

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Try Somewhere New This Summer

If you’re a parent of school aged children you’ll already know just how prohibitively expensive it is to go away in the summer holidays. Budget flights don’t exist once the school term has ended, and you can pretty much forget hotel accommodation if you want to keep costs under £3000 per family.  Add in other necessities, such as car hire and food, and a week in the sun can make a seriously scary dent in your wallet. The Guardian published some interesting figures last year showing just how much prices for family holidays can rise out of term time – think somewhere around  25-40% on average.

If you’ve been trying to book your summer getaway recently as I have, you’ll know that research like this is backed up by personal experience. It goes without saying that holidays are a luxury and that to be able to even consider one puts our family in a much more privileged position than others. But travel is something we enjoy as a family and we make small sacrifices throughout the year to justify our summer getaway. However, even with two okay-ish incomes and the aforementioned scrimping, getting away to popular destinations on the continent (and also in the UK) is becoming increasingly difficult to do on anything vaguely resembling a budget. Even the price of camping has escalated - it can cost you upwards of £2000 for 10 days at some of Eurocamp's Italian and Spanish sites.

So how about trying something a bit different this summer? We recently visited the Moroccan coastal resort of Essaouira, around 2 1/2 hours from Marrakesh. With direct EasyJet flights starting in May from London Luton, this laid-back Moroccan resort offers a much more budget-friendly alternative to the well-travelled hot spots on the Continent; fares start at around £67 outbound and £35 return. We stayed with family, but there is a good selection of well-priced, atmospheric riads in the centre of town. While not ideal for families, a riad does offer the quintessential experience, with direct access to Essaouira's bustling but easy to navigate medina, as well as its huge beach, an obvious draw if you've got little ones in tow. 

For accommodation options that are a little more family friendly, you could consider Le Jardins Des Douars, just outside of town, which has resort-style facilities in a luxe-y setting. It's got the all-important swimming pool, lovely gardens to chill out in and a babysitting service. A week in July for a family of four will set you back around £800, making it a much more affordable option than a comparable resort in Europe. With its traditional Moroccan decor - think tadelakt walls, glittering tile work and carved wooden furniture - this place couldn't be further from the sterile, could-be-anywhere look of your average mid-range resort. 

So, what to do when you're in Essaouira? Perhaps best suited to older children who don't need access to playgrounds and toddler pools, this is a relaxed resort where you can pass the days hanging out at the beach, hitching a ride on a camel or navigating the sand dunes on a pony ride. Older kids will appreciate a wander round Essaouria's colourful souks which are much less hectic, noisy and overwhelming than those in Marrakesh. You can see most of the town in an afternoon, stopping to look into the interesting marquetry workshops (Essaouria is famed for its exquisite wooden handicrafts - see if you can catch the local craftsmen at work in the small 'Thuya' workshops that line the the alleys near the harbour.)

The harbour is another must-see - kids will love watching the fishermen bring in their haul of the day. You can then visit a fish grill where you can choose the fish that takes your fancy and have it cooked to order. A walk along the Skala du Port gives great views out to sea and across the sparkling white city walls. 

The beach isn't the most scenic and the promenades that line the beach are a little rough round the edges - it's not quite the South of France. But what the beach lacks in sophistication it makes up for in space - you won't struggle to find a wide patch to spread out on and make a sandcastle or two. Be warned that Essaouria's beaches attract wind and kite surfers for a reason - the town's 'alizee' is an almost constant breeze that can blow up with some force at times. The sea - being Atlantic - is on the cold side and may sometimes be too choppy for safe swimming. Adventurous kids and grown ups can visit one of the surf schools that line the shore and take to the water in wet suits to catch some waves. 

At the far end of the beach, furthest from the town, you'll find some surfy hangouts and schools, as well as a collection of camel ride operators. A camel ride in Morocco is a bit of a given, and there's something very evocative about sitting aloft one of these ancient animals as you navigate the dusty sand dunes. Be sure to bargain a little before you mount that hump, though - if you can't get the price you want, try one of the other camel owners. Stop off at Ocean Vagabond, a funky beach cafe serving good value food including kid-friendly burgers and pizza.

On the subject of food, eating out in Morocco is much more kind on the wallet than its European counterparts. You can eat in quite an upmarket restaurant, with wine, for around £50 for a family of four. We loved the unusual Elizir restaurant in the medina, a truly unique eating experience where you can enjoy traditional Moroccan food alongside child-pleasing Italian dishes. The menu is small but you should find something of the pasta variety to keep little ones happy. What's particularly alluring about this place is that it's rather hidden and very eccentric - the owner (who trained in Italy's gastronomic capital, Bologna - hence the Italian references) collects retro bric a brac and furniture, creating an eclectic fusion of traditional Moroccan wall art and flooring with funky 60s dining chairs, lighting and other weird and wonderful objects trouve. 

Other highly rated restaurants to try include the sea-front Chalet de la Plage, reputed to serve some of the town's best seafood, and Chez Sam, a rustic joint down by the harbour, also good for sampling the day's catch. If you need somewhere to rest your legs mid meander through the Medina, make a pit stop at the charming Patisserie Driss, just off the main square. It gets very busy and the service can be slow, but it's a good place for a cafe au lait and a delicious Moroccan confection - try the pastries filled with almond paste. There's a pretty courtyard to sit in or you can take your goodies away with you.

Come evening head to Taros Bar, a cool but friendly rooftop hangout where you can eat or just enjoy a cocktail or glass of Moroccan Gris wine overlooking the sea. Kids are welcome and it's got a laid-back, Ibizan-style vibe that makes it feel a bit of a treat for grown-ups.

Other activities you might like to try include testing your golf skills at the Mogador golf course, just outside town. Kids are welcome to use the driving range and putting course, and prices start at about £20 for a family of four.

Essaouria might not quite have the polish of resorts in France, Italy or Spain but it's got an unpretentious charm and character all of its own. And with prices for flights, accommodation and holiday entertainment coming in at a lot less than its European counterparts, the little corner of North Africa has a lot to commend it...

For alternative side to Morocco, read my post on Marrakesh here.