Florence With Children

It's fair to say that Florence isn't the most obvious place to take children. For children under 10 there aren't really any obvious 'hooks' - no theme parks, river boats or big, open spaces - to grab their attention, and although there's pizza, pasta and ice cream in abundance, there's only so much of that stuff you can eat in any one day. If you have older children or teenagers, however, or if you find yourself in the enviable position of having a child-free weekend at your disposal, Florence makes a beautiful setting in which to soak up a bit of culture. When we recently visited with our 6 and 10 year old, we were pleasantly surprised by their appetite for exploration and willingness to go with the flow. 

Whether you have children in tow or not, avoid visiting Florence in July and August - high summer here is literally steaming, and the tightly packed, medieval streets that criss-cross the city seem to hold the heat, turning it into one giant, boiling cauldron...not conducive to a busy schedule of sightseeing. That said, come in January or February and it can be freezing, so Spring and early Autumn are the best times to plan your visit. 

While Florence does have a small airport, most international airlines fly into Pisa, a route served by EasyJet in the UK. At the other side you can get to Florence by train or coach, a journey time of just over an hour. Trains to Florence's Santa Maria Novella Station run frequently and the service is cheap. Be warned that until January 2015 there is no direct train from Pisa Airport due to major engineering works, so you need to make your way to Pisa's central station to travel on to Florence. 

So, what to do when you reach this legendary cultural hotspot? Whether you have children with you or not, my advice would be to pace yourself. There's so much to see that it can be overwhelming. Of course, I'm assuming you have at least some interest in art and history; it you don't, Florence really isn't for you! If you do, you'll quickly realise that the key attractions come with epic, round-the-block queues. Don't bother with the Uffizi, Michelangelo's David or the Cathedral Bell Tower if you're visiting with kids - they'll become quickly dispirited if joining an endless queue forms the main part of their day. But if you're on your own, do try and squeeze in a visit to see David - it's one of life's bucket-list experiences. Don't forget you can take the kids to see the replica David standing proud in the Piazza della Signoria - a much more child-friendly way to feel like you've 'done' a bit of Michelangelo.

We managed to make it into the Duomo and my favourite church in Florence, Santa Croce. Both are spectacular inside. The latter houses some beautiful frescoes by Giotto as well as the tombstones of luminaries such as Michelangelo and Gallileo. It's a very peaceful, awe-inspiring place to spend some time. But if churches aren't your thing I would recommend visiting one of Florence's smaller museums if you want something a bit more manageable than the Uffizi - the Bargello is a good option. 

For something completely free, head over to the Piazza della Signoria, a large, picturesque square where your kids can let off some steam and look at some sculptures in the Loggia dei Lanzi, a sort of outdoor bit of the Uffizi. When you're here you're just a few moments' walk to the Ponte Vecchio, a real must-see and the perfect venue to watch the sun set over the Arno. 

For a more bohemian, less touristy outlook of the city, continue across the bridge, arriving in the Oltrarno area - the equivalent of Paris' Left Bank. You could head over to the Boboli Gardens while you're here, one of the few green spaces in Florence, where you can wander around formal gardens and fountains - a good place for a picnic. Piazza Santa Spirito encapsulates the bohemian vibe of this area and is a good place for a coffee - the square is lined with some cool cafes and bars with an alternative feel. Our kids spent ages chasing pigeons on the steps of Santo Spirito church.

Further out still is the pretty church of San Minato al Monte, on a hill overlooking the city. Take the bus and stop off first at Piazzale Michelangelo, the only place to get a truly panoramic, breathtaking view of Florence's unique skyline. It's worth paying a bit extra for a coffee at the outside cafe so you can lap up the views while the kids enjoy an ice cream. 

Back in the heart of the city a trip to the Mercato Centrale makes for a diverting change from art history. This massive food market is a great place to wander round with kids and there some truly eye-popping foods to feast your eyes on, from huge slabs of cheese and exotic seafood to salumerie hung with spicy salami, Parma ham and wild boar. Your kids might not be so keen on the stalls selling tripe, a particularly revered local speciality. It's bustling, noisy and colourful and there are lots of opportunities for tasting. Upstairs has a more up-market, trendy feel, where you can stop for a coffee and a cake or enjoy a wood-fired pizza and a beer; a great, good value option for family eating. 

While you're in this area you might as well stroll through the market stalls of San Lorenzo and let the kids choose a tacky souvenir or Italian football shirt. You could then walk the short distance to the pretty church of Santa Maria Novella, with its distinctive stripy facade, and then walk a little further to the gorgeous Farmacia Santa Maria Novella, an old-fashioned pharmacy selling amazing perfumes, colognes and tinctures based on recipes dating back some 400 years. You're quite welcome to take a look around and have a spritz of cologne even if you don't intend to buy.

When it comes to eating and drinking, there are limitless options at all price ranges, but anywhere really central might be beyond your budget (and not always the most authentic.) A great option for lunchtimes are the hole-in-the-wall pannini and pizza places - tiny little shops where you can get a slice of pizza or a hunk of ciabatta with porchetta and a glass of Chianti to be taken away or simply eaten right there on the street. All' Antico Vinaio on Via dei Neri is perhaps the city's most famous paninoteca - be prepared to queue for one of its legendary pannini or schiacciata (flatbreads) stuffed with tasty fillings. We also ate a delicious, good value lunch at Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, another good option for filling sandwiches to eat on the hop.

For your afternoon pick-me-up don't miss Vivoli, generally regarded as Florence's best gelateria - your kids will love choosing from the extensive range of sublime flavours on offer. If you feel like splashing out on a posh cappuccino, the cafes around the Piazza della Republica are particularly chic and you can watch the world go by from the outside terraces. Another nice spot is Scuderi, an elegant cafe, patisserie and sweet shop right next to the Duomo. 

For something more substantial, some of the best value options can be found over the river, where you can avoid the tourist traps serving over-priced Italian standards and eat the more authentic, meaty fare for which Florence is famous. We had an amazing meal at Trattoria 4 Leoni which occupies the corner of a pretty square and has lots of outdoor dining space. The food here pretty special and affordable - highly recommended.

I'd advise doing some research before you go as there are so many restaurants in Florence it can be hard to make a choice - we found this article on the Guardian website helpful in seeking out some budget-friendly options. 

Florence might not be ideal as a base if you have young kids but it's definitely worth adding to your itinerary if you're looking to stay in the surrounding Tuscan countryside and do the odd day trip. It's also not the cheapest place you can visit but you can cut down on costs by staying in an apartment or a budget-friendly hotel. On a visit to Florence pre-kids we stayed at the Hotel Globus, near San Lorenzo market. That trip was some years back, so I can't personally vouch for its quality now, but we thought it was fantastic value back then, and the TripAdvisor reviews are very positive - take a look here. You can visit the hotel's own website here.

If you'd like to read more tips on travelling with children to Florence and Tuscany take a look at my other blog posts here and here.

Weekly Round-up

It’s been a mad-crazy couple of weeks and we have been away on our latest family adventure (look out for a blog post on our trip to Italy, coming very soon) so blogging has taken a bit of a back seat recently. And I haven't had much of interest to blog about. So, this week's post is a quick round-up of some of the small rays of sunshine in a period that's been a bit hectic, a bit stressful and not hugely interesting (bar our lovely break to Florence, of course. Talking of which...)

1.Half term in Florence

I lived in this lovely city for a year as a student and had been hankering to make a visit back to my old stomping ground for ages. The only question was, would Florence make for a successful family break or would all that art, history and culture make my kids’ heads explode? We decided to risk it, and thanks to relatively cheap EasyJet flights and very family and budget-friendly accommodation, it was a risk that didn’t prove too costly. And the kids’ heads didn’t, thankfully, explode. I think they enjoyed it, though I have a suspicion they liked buying rip-off Italian football shirts from the market more than staring at Giotto frescoes at Santa Croce church….

A full blog post on our trip is coming soon…

2. Cheap 'n' cheerful jewellery

I picked up this little beauty on a recent trip to London, at the Forever 21 store on Oxford Street. If you’ve never ventured into a Forever 21 store before, it’s a pretty manic experience, clearly pitched at the teen age group – I am not their target audience at all. That said, if you’re after cheap, fast fashion and have the time to trawl the rails, I noticed some nice little pieces and the prices are exceptionally wallet-friendly. But as I’m trying to buy less stuff and choose quality over quantity, and resist the false economy (and dubious ethics) of fast fashion, I ignored the racks of hippy-style dresses that looked quite nice and concentrated on the accessories, stumbling on this gem of a necklace that has a hint of the Anthropologie about it – but without the expensive price tag. This beauty cost me £7. Yes, just a little more than a magazine and a bar of choccy.

3. Reading 'Quiet' by Susan Cain

I rarely read non-fiction and have never in my life felt drawn to self-help books, and while this wonderful, fascinating book isn't strictly a self-help book, it does help you understand yourself better if you consider yourself an introvert and reveals the natural reflexes and responses that make some people quiet and anxious, and others confident and gregarious. It's a reminder to yourself that if you like your own company, work best on your own in quiet, familiar surroundings, or shy away from public speaking and 'putting yourself out there' in the workplace there actually isn't anything wrong with you and that your contribution is just as valid as anyone else's. In fact the book is subtitled 'The Power of Introverts in a World that Can't Stop Talking'. If, like me you are a 'quiet' person and fancy understanding yourself a little bit better, READ this book - find out more here.

4. Eating cheese  

My kids don’t ‘do’ shopping. So I knew there’d be no browsing the boutiques of Florence’s enchanting side streets, spending hours picking through vintage knick knacks in the flea markets or searching for the perfect leather sandals (for which Florence is famous)in San Lorenzo, the city’s bustling shopping area. However no trip to Florence is complete without a visit to the Mercato Centrale (an amazing food market) and I knew my kids would be okay with this, given that they love looking at weird cuts of meat and barely dead fish…and this place is full of that sort of stuff. It was while browsing the amazing food stalls at the market that we came across a cheese that sounded just a bit special – pecorino infused with truffle oil.

All I can say is the block we bought was nowhere near big enough. Sublime doesn’t go anywhere near describing just how good this stuff is. You can buy something a little similar here albeit it at quite a price!

5. Shoes, shoes and more shoes

Alongside the cheese I somehow managed to buy TWO pairs of sandals in Italy. Just need to fix the weather so I can actually wear them, now. Florence is renowned for its leather goods so if you’re in the market for a well-made pair of shoes or a new bag, it’s a good place to be. I was most definitely in the market for some new sandals as the Topshop numbers I’d packed decided to break on me midway through the holiday. So I simply HAD to buy some new ones. I opted for some simple, traditional-style leather sandals which I picked up in a teeny shoe store near San Lorenzo, selling proper ‘Made in Italy’ products. They are unbelievably comfortable and made from high quality leather. And at just £34, an absolute steal. And how cute are the raffia slides? A rash purchase from Pisa Airport and a great way to use up the last of our euros (29 of them, to be exact – bargain)

Oh, and then I remembered we have a friend's 40th birthday party coming up, requiring another shoe purchase, hence the lovely heels that found their way into my basket on a recent trip to M&S. I really rate M&S for shoes - their range is often quite 'fashion forward', they are much better made than other high street alternatives, and they come in half sizes and wider widths, perfect for my rather awkwardly-sized hoofs. Go take a look at what's in store now - I saw some really nice, sensibly priced shoes on my last trip. 

Tuscany on a Shoestring

If you're looking for an inexpensive holiday somewhere sunny, Italy might not be the first place that springs to mind. And Tuscany in particular can be easily discounted as an unaffordable option, particularly for families. Whoever coined the phrase 'Chiantishire' helped to create a long-standing myth that Tuscany is the sole preserve of wealthy, middle-class ex-pats and beyond the pocket of most ordinary folk.

The reality is that while there certainly are corners of Tuscany that attract a select crowd of Chianti swigging, yacht-owning sorts this isn't the only side of the region.

I spent all my childhood summers on the Tuscan coast, where you'll find a host of unpretentious, family-friendly resorts that deliver great beaches, good value places to enjoy the best of Tuscan cuisine and access to some of the region's most lovely villages and towns. Tuscany also has something for everyone, from mountain scenery in the Appenines to idyllic islands studded with some of the prettiest beaches in the Med. There's history and culture everywhere you look here too, not least in the region's triumvirate of most famous cities - Florence, Siena and Pisa - and you're never far from an amazing plate of pasta or a glass of something delicious. 

If this sounds like your kind of holiday but you're on a limited budget, I'd recommend seeking out a campsite option in Italy. A couple of years ago we stayed at Camping Valle Gaia - bookable through both Eurocamp and Canvas - which makes a great base if you're looking for a budget-friendly option in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. There's a beach nearby too (not the prettiest - the Tuscan coast isn't as scenic as other coastal areas in Italy - but spacious, sandy, safe and ideal for children) and the site is just over 60 km from Pisa airport. 

The innate sense of style that Italians apply to every aspect of life is usually evident in its campsites and Valle Gaia is no exception. It's a given that when in Italy you're never far from a decent restaurant, a good cappuccino or a fresh loaf of bread, and campsites in the country tend to adhere to this principle, meaning you'll often find fantastic restaurants on even the most unassuming of campsites, as well as on-site bakeries where you can pick up a ciabatta or bag of croissants fresh from the oven. You certainly don't rough it when camping in Italy. 

Valle Gaia is a small site and ideal for families with young children, and includes all the obvious attractions: two spacious swimming pools (including one just for little ones), children's play area, tennis courts, bar and two restaurants; one for informal, kid-friendly pizza and ice cream and and a smarter option for more sophisticated dining. We loved the latter, which was reasonably priced and served some absolutely outstanding food including regional specialities such as wild boar and pasta with truffle. It being Italy, even the poshest restaurants are happy to accommodate children and we didn't feel uncomfortable eating here with our (sometimes) energetic children. 

Excursions beyond the campsite are varied. We took a day trip to Pisa for the customary pic propping up the tower and a visit to the stunning cathedral. Be warned that children under 8 can't go up the leaning tower but it's a must-do for older kids and adults. Buy a slice of pizza from a nearby cafe and enjoy it in the shade of the basilica before taking a wander across the Campo Dei Miracoli and delving into the interesting surrounding side streets. 

Other nearby must-sees include Volterra, an attractive hill-top town about 30km away and San Gimignano, an atmospheric walled town steeped in history and dominated by its world-famous medieval towers. 

If you don't mind making a longer trip, Siena is well worth the effort. Its historic centre is a UNESCO world heritage site and boasts one of the world's most famous and distinctive squares, the beautiful, honey-coloured Piazza del Campo. Winding, atmospheric streets lead you to the equally stunning cathedral, and there are lots of other interesting sights and glimpses of Siena's illustrious past around every street corner.

I spent a month here as a language student and would regularly pop into Nannini, a charmingly old fashioned cafe, for a post-lecture pick-me up. It serves the most amazing coffee and pastries and is a good place to soak up a bit of Italian cafe culture and rest weary legs. 

If that's not enough culture for you the Renaissance splendours of Florence are a train-ride away (don't take the car - driving through the city and finding somewhere to park are feats not worth undertaking) but if you're visiting during the summer it will be steaming hot and heaving with tourists...possibly best avoided if you have children in tow. It's a stunning place but its gorgeousness might be lost on you if you visit in peak season.

Fancy sampling Tuscany's world-famous wines? Then head over to Bolgheri, just a short drive from the campsite, where you'll find lots of cantinas where you can drop in and try out a Chianti or Sassicaia. The drive to Bolgheri also takes in some quintessential Tuscan landscape, dotted with stone farmhouses and cypress trees. 

If you're looking for something a bit more beachy, Eurocamp also has campsites on Elba, a tiny island off the coast of Tuscany and home to some lovely, unspoilt beaches and pretty towns and resorts. 

To read more about Camping Valle Gaia and other budget-friendly options in Tuscany, take a look at the Eurocamp website here.

Eating Cheap, Italian Style

I was really pleased to see Italy Unpacked return to TV screens last week. Showing on BBC2 on Friday evenings, the series follows art critic Andrew Graham-Dixon and chef Giorgio Locatelli as they deviate from the well-trodden tourist trail and seek out some of Italy’s best-kept secrets – hidden art treasures, exquisite buildings and generally beautiful locations that are a little less publicised in the tourist brochures. Along the way they tuck into some fantastic-looking food that is usually simple and cheap to prepare, but that is bursting with fresh and colourful goodness. In short, the programme is a real antidote to any winter blues you may be experiencing right now, whisking you far away from our rain-lashed shores to the Mediterranean sun.

Beautiful Liguria, home of pesto

Watching the first episode in the series last week reminded me just how inventive authentic Italian cooking is and that its contribution to gastronomy reaches far deeper than the watered-down version of Italian food we’re all familiar with. On last week’s programme the two presenters accompanied a spritely old lady as she went foraging in the hills above her village for wild herbs. She was a great example of how Italian cooking remains deeply rooted in the principle of "Cucina Povera" – literally, "Cooking of the Poor" – and that some of the dishes that today are regaled as being regional delicacies were born of out sheer necessity.

My own father was brought up in post-war Italy, a country absolutely ravaged by conflict where food was in much shorter supply than in the UK. When I was growing up one of my favourite things to eat was fennel – something that my own dad, like many other Italians growing up at that time, would have picked wild and eaten raw, served in slices to be dipped into olive oil with a side sprinkling of salt. Simple, quick to prepare and bursting with nutrients, this is raw food at its best and it’s a comfort food from my childhood that I still love to eat today.

In more recent times, Cucina Povera has gained a bit of a fashionable reputation, with top chefs and foodies extolling its virtues and adding their own modern twists to standards such as pesto and polenta. But I think this takes something away from the true essence of this type of cooking – it’s not about fancy gastronomy but about simple dishes prepared with imagination, using whatever is available. And absolutely nothing goes to waste. That’s why it remains relevant for those of us trying to live frugally but eat well today.

 

Here are some Cucina Povera standards that I recommend if you’re looking for recipes that are simple to make, high in nutrition and taste delicious…

Pea Risotto

Or ‘Risi e Bisi’ to give this risotto its Italian name. I follow a Nigella Lawson recipe from her cookbook ‘How to Eat’. It’s packed with pea-y goodness and is creamy and delicious.  Like all risottos it requires a bit of care and attention but don’t be put off – it’s worth the effort.

Ingredients:

60g butter

Approx. 1 litre of vegetable stock

150g frozen peas

2 tbsps freshly grated parmesan (& more for serving)

Grated nutmeg

I small onion, chopped

Olive oil

200g risotto rice (eg. Arborio or Canaroli)

80 ml dry white wine.

Method:

Put about 1/3 of the butter in a large pan, melt and add the peas. Cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Remove half of the peas and put to the side. To the peas in the pan add a ladle-ful of hot stock. Put a lid on the pan and let the peas cook gently for about 5 minutes. Puree this mixture with a tablespoon of parmesan, and a pinch of nutmeg and pepper. 

Back in the pan add some more butter, alongside a drop of oil, and add the onion, cooking until soft. Add the risotto rice and stir until the rice is coated in butter. Pour in the wine and let it absorb, before adding the rest of the stock, one ladle-ful at a time. Carry on in this way for 10 minutes, then add the just sauteed peas before adding the rest of your stock, a ladle at a time. In another 8 minutes or so the rice should be cooked and the risotto creamy. If it's still a bit hard add some more liquid - some hot water from the kettle will do. 

Then mix in the pea puree and serve with a sprinkling of pepper, a little swirl of olive oil and a handful of parmesan. 

Polenta

Polenta is a bit of wonder ingredient. Traditionally used in Italy as a cheap ‘filler-upper’, polenta is essentially a ground maize porridge that can be used in a variety of ways.  I use it sprinkled on my pizza bases to give them a bit of authentic crunch and you can make some amazing cakes using polenta as a flour substitute – handy if you or someone you know has a gluten intolerance. I’m going to refer you to Nigella once again and her recipe for lemon polenta cake which is absolutely delicious – take a look at the recipe here

You can eat polenta ‘wet’, as a creamy side to meat dishes,or firm – if you’ve ever eaten the Polenta chips at Jamie’s Italian you’ll know how good it tastes in this form.  You need to make up a firm polenta or use ready cooked polenta which you can then cut into chunks and fry in some olive oil. After resting on some kitchen paper, dust with salt and add to a bowl with some fresh rosemary and parmesan.

Homemade Pesto

So much nicer and authentic than the stuff in the jars. There are lots of recipes for home-made pesto, all of which are super simple and quick to make, but I like to follow Marcella Hazan's recipe which can be made in large quantities in a blender rather than with a pestle and mortar, meaning you can buy a massive bunch of basil and make up a big batch you can eat immediately or freeze. Here it is:

Ingredients (to serve 6)

100g fresh basil leaves

8 tbsps olive oil

25g pine nuts

2 cloves of garlic, crushed

Salt

50g freshly grated parmesan

2 tbsps freshly grated pecorino

40g butter, softened

Method

Put the basil, oil, pine nuts, garlic and salt in a blender and mix on a high speed. When the ingredients are blended pour into a bowl and beat in the grated cheeses by hand. Then beat in the softened butter. 

If you are freezing do not add the butter or cheese at the second step, but add the blender mix to a jar, seal tightly and freeze. When you're ready to use your pesto, defrost and then beat in the cheeses and butter before serving.

Recipes reproduced from 'How to Eat' by Nigella Lawson and 'The Classic Italian Cookbook' by Marcella Hazan.

Unusual Jewellery for Special Occasions

A few months back I celebrated a significant birthday and wanted to mark the occasion with a 'grown up' piece of jewellery.I was looking for something a bit more unusual than the high street offerings and anything I liked in more up-market shops was way beyond my budget. Then I stumbled on a gorgeous range entitled the Greta Collection. It's been created by fashion stylist and editor Laura Fantacci, who I have been following on Twitter for some time. Laura is also the author of the inspiring blog Wearing it Today, a great read if you're looking for wardrobe inspiration and would like to pick up some trade secrets from the fashion world.  

Laura is originally from Florence and when she gave birth to her little girl she asked a Florentine jeweller to help her craft a piece that would mark this significant event. Since that time the collection - named after Laura's daughter - has grown to include initial rings, necklaces and bracelets, crafted from 18kt solid gold and diamonds. 

I decided to buy an initial ring and am hoping to add to my 'L' (which conveniently is also my eldest son's initial) with a 'G' ring (both my youngest child and husband's initial.)As Laura illustrates on her site the rings look particularly lovely in pairs and are a sweet way to keep your children and loved ones close to you as you go about your day. 

Having lived in Florence myself during my 20s I can vouch for its exceptional heritage when it comes to jewellery-making. This beautiful city abounds with centuries-old workshops and tiny ateliers where expert craftspeople create all sorts of beautiful, unique pieces using the highest-quality materials. They may not be as competitively priced as more mass market products, but you can be assured that each piece will have been made with great care and impeccable attention to detail.

The Greta Collection is crafted at one of Florence's most illustrious addresses - the Ponte Vecchio - so if you're looking for an extra special gift, perhaps for a wedding anniversary, special birthday or to mark the arrival of a new baby, do take a look at the collection and read more on Laura's story on her website. None of the pieces tops the £200 mark, which for a made-to-order, hand-crafted piece of jewellery is a very reasonable price point.

For more information about the Greta Collection of rings, bracelets and necklaces, click here.