A Second Summer of Love in Ibiza

Half way into our second visit to the White Isle I found myself googling "English School Ibiza." Window shopping took on a new meaning as I found myself drawn not to Ibiza Town's boutiques but its estate agents instead. And I spent a good few hours distracted from my holiday reading by considering the feasibility of buying a holiday apartment in our complex (sadly not really feasible in my current financial circumstances.) 

I never expected to feel this way about Ibiza but it's true what they say - there's a unique and special magic about this place that has me well and truly under its spell.

So what is it about this island that makes it so different to other destinations in the Med? Like other places in Southern Europe, it's got all those classic associations of summer holidays - sunshine, olive groves, sandy beaches and cicadas - but there's another something Ibiza brings to the mix, a hard to quantify ambiance that you just don't get elsewhere. 

With a long heritage of being a place of hedonism, experimentation and liberalism, Ibiza has - despite attracting an increasingly monied clientele - a very inclusive, welcoming feel about it. There's a sense that anything is possible here and the zest for life of its lucky inhabitants permeates the island. There's a lot of joy and playfulness in Ibiza and coming back to the UK after a two-week break can feel a dispiriting and grey experience. 

But before you get to enjoy the wonder of the island, you do need to steel yourself for what can be a "lively" outbound journey. Those with a low tolerance of stag and hen parties might struggle to contemplate a 2.5 hour journey surrounded by large groups looking forward to the prospect of a holiday in San Antonio. In our case, we were surrounded by a group of about 20 lads hitting the island's notorious resort for a "three day bender." Sitting behind a couple of them made for informative listening - let's just say that my nine year old now knows the best place to purchase drugs on the San An strip...

But if you can grit your teeth, be assured that Ibiza is not in any way defined by the bright lights and brash nightlife of San An, and you'll find a completely different side to the island everywhere else. Our base just outside Santa Eularia offered easy access to all corners of the island - the great thing about Ibiza is that no journey seems to take longer than 40 minutes making wider exploration of the island really easy. I'd definitely recommend getting a hire car if you want to experience Ibiza properly - it's the only way to explore some of the less obvious beauty spots on the island's stunning coastline, as well as penetrating its tranquil rural heartland. 

New discoveries on this trip included some breathtaking beaches on the Northern Coast, the least developed part of the island. This is my favourite corner of Ibiza, a tranquil and authentic mix of lovely villages and idyllic coves where the water is spectacularly clear and the snorkelling is outstanding. We loved the tiny Cala Xuclar and the blissful S'illot des Rencli, both of which are blessed with incredible waters swimming with an array of fish. 

Inland, Sant Joan is the epitome of Ibiza's hippy identity, a sleepy village that comes to life on market day (Sundays) and features a smattering of lovely cafes and restaurants, including the outstanding Giri Cafe. On the expensive side, we opted to combine a visit to the market with breakfast in the Giri's gorgeous gardens - a truly lovely treat that didn't dent our wallets too badly. 

Brimming with atmosphere and lovely things to buy, the Sant Joan market encapsulates Ibiza's creative and colourful vibe - it's the kind of place where proper old school hippies rub shoulders with beautiful girls selling handmade espadrilles, and open air yoga sessions take place amongst the stalls. A little further up the road lies another of our favourite discoveries this year - the amazing Los Enamorados, a boutique hotel, bar, shop and restaurant in Portinatx. 

A stunning 1960s hotel, this quirky space is a retro lover's dream. Filled with mid-century furniture, '60s glassware and armchairs covered in loud palm tree-printed upholstery, Los Enamorados combines an amazing aesthetic with a lovely position overlooking a quiet bay away from the more touristy end of the town. 

The perfect setting for a sundowner, when I wasn't gawping at the view I was making lots of mental notes for integrating a bit of '60s Ibiza into my own home (do have a look in the gallery to see how pleasing the owners' vision is.)

If '60s-style boutique hotels don't really do it for your children, head up to the Can Marca caves close to San Miquel for something totally different. An underground wonderland brought to life with atmospheric lighting and music, these remarkable caves offer a fun alternative to beaches and swimming pools. 

Heading South, a real highlight of our trip was a visit to the cosmopolitan Cala d'Hort beach, a lovely bay overlooking the famous Es Vedra rock. Come dusk, we headed up to the cliffs for an experience that no visitor to the island should miss - sunset casting a pinky hue over the mystical landmark that has inspired all sorts of myths and legends over the years. It's the perfect place to watch the sun dip into the sea, although in August you'll be joined by quite a lot of other onlookers. 

But there's something very lovely about the elemental experience of a group of people quietly observing this everyday happening. And the sunsets in Ibiza really are very special, inspiring the crowds to speak in hushed voices and clap when the sun finally disappears on the horizon. 

We fell in love with other discoveries on the coastline too - tranquil Cala Mastella on the East Coast for its unspoilt, undiscovered feel (despite being the location of the highly regarded El Bigotes restaurant); S'Estanyol, a lovely bay a short distance from Ibiza Town and venue for one of our blow-out lunches (at the gorgeous Cala Bonita - expensive but idyllic beach-side dining); and Cala Saladeta, an impossibly beautiful sandy beach with breathtaking turquoise waters just 5 minutes from San Antonio. 

We returned to old haunts also, which didn't disappoint second time around - the rural restaurant of La Paloma was every bit as magical as I remembered it, shopping in Sluiz was mental and Ibiza Town was as vibrant and exciting as ever - we even got to see some of the famed club parades this time around and finally made it to S'Escalinata for cocktails. 

Another highlight which we loved first time around was Las Dalias, the venue for our have-kids-will-club experience. Host to a brilliant club night called Acid Sundays, it's a great place to soak up the inimitable spirit of Ibiza's club culture without having to pay epic entry fees. Colourful and fun, this place is everything I love about Ibiza - it's a celebration of life for anyone and everyone, with all ages and nationalities welcome to join the party. 

But all good parties have to come to an end and my children have made noises about trying somewhere different next summer. So perhaps Ibiza in the spring might be nice for a change? Or maybe we'll fit in a child-free weekend so I can realise my ambition to dance the night away in Pacha. One thing's for sure - I'm not ready to put Ibiza out of my mind just yet...

You can read my previous blog post about Ibiza for more travel recommendations here. 

Family Camping in Devon

Things I like: walls, being warm, running water, privacy. So, based on this short but not inconsequential list, you'd imagine that I might have a bit of a problem with the concept of camping. If you add in the fact that I'm pretty useless at following diagrammatic instructions, have a very low patience threshold and don't much like insects, you can easily see that me and camping aren't really natural bedfellows.

But here's the thing - I absolutely love being outdoors. And you know what camping does? It makes you be outdoors pretty much all of the time. I don't come from a camping family but when we moved back to the West country after a decade in London, buying a tent was one of the first things we did. With access to an incredible wealth of coast and countryside on our doorstep - coupled with significantly reduced income after we became parents - I was ready to embrace a brave new world of tents, fleeces and blow-up beds. 

Some 12 years on since our first camping trip to Cornwall - an interesting experience with a sleep-averse two-year-old - I've come to really love it and truly relish that first trip of the season. Bringing down our gear from the loft provides a feeling not dissimilar to unearthing the box of Christmas decorations; while I know in reality each camping experience - just like each Christmas - will bring its own challenges, I love what that box of head torches, plastic plates and sleeping bags signifies: family time, relaxation and a temporary suspension of normal routines.

That's not to say I enjoy putting a tent up or relish cooking a family meal on a camping stove - both these activities can colour my language quite strongly. And I'm definitely a fair-weather camper - I've spent enough evenings wearing five layers of clothes and sitting in a sleeping bag to know that my Mediterranean temperament isn't suited to harsh outdoor weather conditions. But when the weather's on your side, you've got all the gear and you're sitting in a field as the sun sets, glass of rose in hand, there's really nothing like it. You just don't get the same experience in a 5-star hotel (well, you might, but I wouldn't know.)

For our first trip of this season, we headed to Devon and the lovely Strawfields camp site, just outside Ilfracombe. The antithesis of those very regimented, characterless sites filled with rows of tents and caravans, Strawfields is a much more rustic, natural affair. Limited to just a handful of pitches, there are two fields you can camp on, both overlooking the the unspoilt Devonshire countryside. 

Strawfields also offers a safari tent and shepherd's hut to stay in, as well as a couple of cottages at the other end of the site. During our stay we had a field all to ourselves - that's the kind of camping I love. With space to spill out and room to run around and kick a ball about, this was a wonderful bonus for our family of claustrophobic city dwellers. 

Another big advantage is that Strawfields provides fire pits - an absolute necessity if you want to enjoy being outdoors for as long as possible. Seriously, a fire pit changes everything. They truly enhance the camping experience, not just by keeping you warm but by providing a focal point to your evenings. There's something so lovely about seeing your normally phone obsessed teenager entranced by the vision of a flickering fire, plus, of course, you get to toast marshmallows on it. 

At the risk of sounding saccharine, we've had some of our most memorable family moments gathered round a camp fire - there's something so very simple about building and sitting round a fire that I defy any parent not to get a bit mushy after they've spent an hour or two sitting in its glow, children happily distracted from their gadgets.

Rustic but pretty toilet and shower facilities are provided - I was able to get a hot shower each morning, plus there are a proper flushing loos on the site. Forget concrete shower blocks, trailing the smell of strong bleach; the facilities here are made from natural materials and look out across the fields. 

Nearby you'll find plenty of things to do. While I found Ilfracombe itself a little unappealing, you don't have to travel far to find less commercialised options. Saunton Sands is a huge expanse of beach, backed by sand dunes and dotted with colourful beach huts. This part of Devon is very much surfing territory, with the famed Croyde beach also nearby should you want to get your fix of wetsuit-based watersports.

We spent a lovely day at the tranquil Lee Bay, much more my kind of beach. Located in a pretty cove about 15 minutes drive from Strawfields, this beach makes a wonderful place to explore at low tide (though you do need to be aware of tide times as some of the beach gets cut off at certain points in the day.) With just a cafe overlooking the cove, it's a quiet, undeveloped spot and I loved it. 

There are highly regarded coastal walks on offer around this area, too, though we were too lazy to countenance doing anything that energetic on this trip. Instead, we opted to travel inland to Exmoor where we spent a restful afternoon hanging out at the legendary beauty spot Tarr Steps. Characterised by an ancient clapper bridge that crosses a crystal clear Exmoor stream, it's an idyllic place for a paddle and a picnic. There's also a great tea room and pub overlooking the stream should you fancy partaking in the tradition of a Devon Cream Tea. 

En route to Tarr Steps we stopped at the Guardian recommended Royal Oak pub in Withypool, a truly authentic Exmoor pub serving outstanding pub classics - we loved it. Exmoor is a spectacular place for a drive or a walk - I'd liked to have explored this lovely corner of Devon a bit more, but we'll leave that for next time.

If you're a camping virgin or perhaps a reluctant camper who just hasn't quite got the concept - and I truly can understand why you might feel this way - I would thoroughly recommend investing in the right gear and a box of camping essentials you can stow away in your loft so they're good to go for your next trip. I can't recommend getting the best sleeping gear you can afford highly enough - cotton, duvet-style sleeping bags have transformed my enjoyment of camping. We have this one from Coleman - can't say I find it aesthetically pleasing, but it's totally snuggly while allowing your skin to breath. Good airbeds are another game-changer.

You'll need all the obvious extras - chairs, camping stove, etc - but I've found it really useful to have a dedicated box of camping essentials. At the end of each trip I top up as necessary so we always have the following items - all of which I guarantee you'll need - in our camping box at all times: 

• Loads of torches and head torches for night time loo trips
• Lanterns
• tea towel
• J cloths
• Baby wipes
• Melamine crockery and standard kitchen utensils and cutlery
• Lighter
• Corkscrew (really important)
• Matches
• Water carrier
• Tea bags (also very important)
• Food basics - salt, sugar, oil etc.
• Tin opener
• First Aid kit
• Washing line and pegs
• Dustpan and brush
• Toilet roll
• Bin bags
• Washing up bowl and washing up liquid
• Antiseptic wipes

Happy camping! 

For more information about Strawfields, visit the website here.

My Bristol

So, my home city has been named the best place to live in the UK by the Sunday Times. This comes off the back of a fair bit of publicity for the city in recent years - it seems Bristol has steadily built a reputation for being something a bit special and lately it seems like every other publication is singing its praises.

As someone who was raised in the city and came back here after I become a parent, I've seen it undergo a whole lotta changes over the years; most of them good, though I have to say that I'm less happy about Bristol becoming a bit of a London satellite - just try buying a family home in a good catchment area if you want evidence of the impact of London-Bristol migration.

I also have my own personal gripes - rubbish public transport, poor secondary school provision and a pretty bad litter problem - and I do think some stuff that has been written about the city is slightly romanticised. Yes, people from Bristol may seem physically compelled to thank every bus driver for every bus journey they ever make...but that does rather depend on whether you can actually get a bus in the first place.

And, like any city, for every affluent suburban street and graceful Georgian square, Bristol has its fair share of neglected, depressed areas that don't quite fit the rosy picture displayed in the broadsheets. It isn't really accurate to portray Bristol as some sort of utopia, despite its proud heritage of inclusiveness and political agitation, and it would be remiss to glaze over the fact that many of the city's best offerings are the preserve of its wealthier residents. BUT...that's a whole different conversation.

Instead, as someone who does truly love my home city - despite taking some of the plaudits with a pinch of salt - I've collected my favourite places in Bristol and the surrounding environs. They're not the big name attractions that you'll probably already be aware of, but rather places that, if I was visiting the city for a weekend, I'd be very happy to stumble upon...

Clifton Wood

Central Clifton - with the Suspension Bridge, Georgian architecture and an abundance of chi chi cafes - is an obvious addition to any tour of Bristol, but equally enchanting is Clifton Wood, a hotch-potch of quiet little roads and steep hills lined with pastel-coloured houses. You can enjoy fantastic views over the docks from up here, plus there's a cute little pub, The Lion, to fulfill your refreshment requirements. There's a distinctly Bohemian vibe in this part of the city - it's the sort of place people make mosaics for their walls and prettify electricity boxes with painted pictures.

You'll eventually wind up either down by the docks or back in Clifton; if you hit the latter, take your pick from a variety of photogenic attractions: Royal York Crescent, the Observatory, Clifton Arcade and Birdcage Walk, to name just a few.

The Lido

Staying with the upmarket side of Bristol, there's something very charming about this place. Brought back to life in 2008, the Lido retains the character of a 1920s bathing club, with its functional swimming pool lined with retro-style curtained changing rooms. Opposite the changing rooms is a lovely restaurant - enjoying a lazy, post-swim brunch in the sunshine can almost make you feel like you're on holiday. And to be able to get that feeling in the middle of a city is no bad thing. Visit the website for more info.

Bristol Museum & Art Gallery

A proper old school museum - the sort I love. With only small concessions to the modern, interactive way of displaying information, this museum hasn't really changed much since I used to come here as a child. 

Housed in a beautiful neo-classical building, this free museum has a whiff of old school exploration, with its collections of stuffed animals, Egyptian mummies and rocks and minerals. I particularly like the gallery, a tranquil space hung with some impressive artworks, including pieces by Seurat and Renoir. Visit the website for more info.

Gloucester Road

No prizes for naming this legendary high street as a Bristolian must-see. Often referenced as the last great high street in the UK, there's still a defiantly independent feel to Gloucester Road, despite the presence of a couple of chains. But if you were, say, wanting to visit the street art of Stokes Croft or indulge in some retail therapy at Cabot Circus, you could swap catching the bus for a wander down this quirky, interesting road, the kind of place where you can lay your hands on pretty much anything and everything. 

Traditional hardware shops rub shoulders with San Fran-style cafes, while you can have a rummage in a multitude of amazing charity shops or browse pretty homewares and clothing in some super-cute boutiques. I couldn't live without the traditional toy shop Totally Toys (a lifesaver for last-minute presents) plus I love a nose in the pound shop and brilliant health food store Scoop Away. 

Just before the junction with Cheltenham Road hook a right up to Zetland Road and you'll come across a real culinary gem - Green's Dining Room is, in my opinion - one of the best and most consistent restaurants in the city; it's a lovely, unpretentious little place serving some of the most delicious food I've ever had in Bristol.

Botanic Garden

A relatively recent discovery, this is a really lovely place to enjoy a break from the city noise. Owned by the university, the gardens are located just off Durdham Downs on Stoke Park Road (follow the brown signs) and feature collections of unusual plants and trees. It's all very calm and civilised beyond the garden threshold - the perfect place for an undisturbed wander on a sunny day. There's a cafe on site, plus the gardens often have interesting exhibitions on show - the last time I visited the plants were decorated with pretty glass sculptures. Visit the website for more info.

Clevedon

I bloody love Clevedon. Home to my two best friends when I was a teenager, I spent a lot of time mooching around in Clevedon in my youth. Having smartened up in recent years, Clevedon now has a beautifully restored Victorian Pier and a refurbished outdoor swimming pool, as well as a pretty pebble beach backed by elegant houses and cafes. There's a smart parade of shops at Hill Road, while Poets Walk offers gorgeous views across the water. 

And while said water might be a tad brown - the Bristol Channel isn't the most photogenic of waterways - Clevedon is a very convenient place to get to when you're looking for a bit of sea air. Just 20 minutes by car from Bristol, it's a lovely spot to sit in the sun eating fish and chips or a proper Italian ice cream from Forte's.

More Bristol Recommendations

I wrote a piece for HelloBRSTL on recommendations for things to do and where to eat in Bristol - take a look here.

Photos courtesy of Lido Bristol, Visit Bristol and Bristol Botanic Gardens.

A Weekend in The Cotswolds

About this time of year I start craving a bit of a change of scenery. But with finances still slightly dented after Christmas, plus the unreliability of the weather, it always feels a bit daft to splash out on an expensive weekend away in February. I don't want to travel for hours to arrive somewhere and find a solid two days or rain or snow is forecast - I'd rather hedge my bets by keeping travel time to a minimum and choosing somewhere with a (relatively) benign climate.

Step forward the Costwolds. Just over an hour from Bristol, the villages around Cirencester offer a no-stress option if you're looking for a countryside getaway with the chance to visit some quaint towns, smart gastropubs and interesting shops during your stay. 

For our weekend's exploration of this pretty corner of the country, we based ourselves in Bibury, an idyllic village not far from the region's capital, Cirencester. Bibury has charm by the bucket-load; despite attracting vast numbers of tourists throughout the year, it retains a quiet, sleepy vibe and you can take refuge from the crowds in the surrounding countryside.

With its typical Cotswold stone buildings - including the picturesque, much photographed Arlington Row - and rustic bridges, Bibury is as quintessentially English as villages come; there are pretty pubs, tea shops and even a trout farm to complete the bucolic scene.

If you like things to be lively, Bibury may disappoint, however there's more bustle just up the road in Cirencester, where you'll find a good selection of high street shops, cafes and restaurants in a pleasant setting. But if you really are after a bit of a digital detox and the chance to roam the great outdoors, Bibury makes a great base, offering some idyllic rolling countryside to explore.

We enjoyed a lovely ramble through tranquil fields and woods, taking in the village of Coln St Aldwyns and a welcome pit stop at the very tasteful New Inn pub. When I say 'pub', this place perhaps typifies the fashionable demographic of this corner of the country - think an expensive looking, Range Rover driving clientele, Farrow and Ball decor and Bloody Marys at £8 a pop...the Cotswolds most definitely have an affluent feel about them.

Away from the celebrity associations (Kate Moss, David Cameron and Lily Allen are just some of the famous names with homes in the area) there are more 'ordinary' attractions to enjoy - traditional country pubs, quirky tea shops and charming churches aren't difficult to stumble on, plus there are several places to try your hand at watersports in the area.

It was a bit cold for us to sample that side of the area on this visit, but come in the summer and you can take to the water at the Costwold Water Park or at South Cerney Outdoor Education Centre. We kept our feet on dry land instead, visiting the nearby town of Burford on our second day, a lovely place for a stroll and a browse in the high street's selection of cute independent stores - it's the kind of place that has a shop specialising in handcrafted brushes and artisan cheeses.

Just outside the centre of Burford is one of the most exciting shops I've visited in a long while - the Burford Garden Company. Ostensibly a 'garden centre', this place ain't quite the same as your local B&Q. I'd describe it as a cross between somewhere like a Wyevale garden centre and Liberty - it's a vast space of several buildings selling not just gorgeous plants, flowers, garden furniture, pots and other accessories, but stunning homewares, clothing, toiletries and stationery as well.

To say you could spend the best part of a day here is no overstatement; there's also a toy department and cafe on site too. Given that Liberty is perhaps my favourite store ever, I could have parted with some serious cash here - like the aforementioned retail legend, it's a shop filled with a carefully curated collection of lovely things, from hippy-luxe Moroccan rugs to hand-made pottery, boutique brand perfumes and candles to vintage crockery. 

And of course, there are the flowers and plants too, which have all your outdoor requirements totally nailed. I absolutely loved the place.

We stayed in a lovely stone cottage in the heart of the village, 33 The Square, a suitably cosy and cute place to rest up after a day's exploring. It's everything you'd want from a country retreat with its real fire, low beams and beautiful aspect overlooking a picturesque square. 

With three double bedrooms, it comfortably accommodates six and feels pretty roomy for a cottage - it wouldn't be a hardship to while away an afternoon in front of the fire if the weather wasn't on your side. 

I loved the comfortable, simple decor of the cottage, with its traditional shutters, wooden staircase and cushion-filled window seats - anywhere that has a window seat is all good with me.

We'll definitely be back to this corner of the UK - on a sunny day (we enjoyed glorious sunshine on our trip) I can't think of many nicer places to unwind, have a screen detox and perhaps enjoy an expensive Bloody Mary... 

For more information and to book 33 The Square, visit the website here.*

*We enjoyed a complimentary stay at 33 The Square but all opinions are my own.